Queenstown and Surrounding area
Day 57 - 26th March - QueenstownJust a simple day of R&R between hikes. Stocked up for the next walk and updated my blog. Took some time to shit my pants over the prospect that I still don't have a job lined up for after the holiday.
Days 58-62 - 27th-31st March - Routeburn and Caples Track
The Routeburn, one of New Zealand's most popular hikes, is a three day hike that starts in Mount Aspiring National Park near Queenstown and moves into Fiordland National Park via an alpine crossing over an area called the divide. It attracts many trampers so booking is essential and I managed to get one. However I figured that three days wasn't enough so I chose to add on another hike at the end, the Caples Track. This takes trampers back out of Fiordland and up to the shores of Lake Wakatipu near the town of Glenorchy and about an hour away from Queenstown.
Incidentally the two trails only come to about sixty three kilometres although with side trips this could be raised to over seventy. This is still a rather short hike for five days though, mainly due to the Routeburn being such a short hike. I was considering adding on another walk again to lengthen the experience but I haven't got too much time in New Zealand. In fact after I'm done with this hike I've got twelve days left. Time is flying!
Day 1I awoke to the sound of torrential rain on the roof and found myself gazing upon one of the most miserable days I'd ever seen, grey and absolutely pissing down. The prospect of getting up early and hiking in this weather did not exactly thrill me but it had to be done, I refuse to be a quitter. That and I'd already pre-paid my hut fees and transport.
I grudgingly ingested a quick breakfast and gulped down a hastily prepared cup of tea before reporting to the pick up point for my transport to the start of the track. I secretly hoped that the van would break down and offer us a full refund, instead it turned up bang on time and collected me along with several other weary trampers, all covered in so much warm clothing and waterproof apparel that we looked grotesquely overweight. I wondered what it would take to get out of doing a hike in such catastrophic weather without looking like a quitter. Suddenly a brain hemorrhage actually seemed like a thoroughly appealing concept at this juncture, how often can someone say that?
Covered entirely in waterproof clothing I rushed through the downpour to my hut as quickly as possible. Fortunately I didn't miss too much scenery. Like most of these walks the first day is never all that interesting. Plodding through the utterly rain sodden landscape was hardly the most agreeable scenario I'd ever been in. The heavy downpour had turned much of the path into a running stream and random, newly created waterfalls crossed the path and had to be forded. It wasn't long before I reached Routeburn Falls hut and my spirits were immediately lifted to new heights. The hut was just bloody marvellous, a large construction on stilts on the edge of a mountain next to a waterfall. It was my new favourite hut in New Zealand so far.
Another thing that never fails to delight on a horrendous day is changing into dry clothes in front of a roasting hot wood coal fire and relaxing with a hot beverage, in this case a hot chocolate. I dried my clothes by the fire and thoroughly enjoyed the rest of my day in the hut.
Later on, towards the early evening, the downpour relented and I took a stroll around the area surrounding the hut. The views were absolutely amazing with spectacular peaks rising in all directions. The Routeburn Falls were also thundering down, thanks to the heavy rain, providing a feast for the eyes and ears. Once again I was elated, thrilled to be out in the wilderness and I had completely forgotten about the thoroughly execrable weather I'd endured earlier. The weather forecast promised much better weather tomorrow and, judging by the look of the scenery ahead, tomorrow looked like it would certainly not disappoint. This was a good day, a really really good day.
Not that I'm eager to leave this absolutely splendid hut though. I could have stayed another night, socialising and playing cards in front of the fire all night.
Day 2
just look at this stunning panoramic photo!Well bugger me with a fishfork! Was it naive of me to trust the forecast and expect good weather today? OK so admittedly the weather did technically improve, that is to say that it went from utterly torrential rain and zero visibility to light rain and zero visibility. Part of me did hope that things would get better. But my luck had to run out sooner or later and since I've had near perfect weather for most of my holiday I suppose it would be ungrateful to complain about it finally turning against me.
I ambulated forth from the wonderful Routeburn Falls Hut and made my way up towards the area known as Harris Saddle. For the first two hours of the day it looked like things were going well. Although cloudy and damp the views were quite spectacular for a short while. Once I'd reached Harris Saddle though things took a turn for the worse. A thick impenetrable fog descended upon the landscape and reduced visibility to a stones throw away. I would have taken the optional side-trip to the summit of Conical Hill but given the weather I was less than eager. I started the tramp down from Harris Saddle towards Lake Mackenzie, quite hastily I might add. Normally this section is meant to be completed at a leisurely pace in order to take in the views but considering the circumstances I figured I might as well hurry, after all I was cold and wet and I wasn't really getting much in the scenery department.
Apart from a few scant and fleeting glimpses when the clouds partially cleared, the walk was grey all the way. Before long I looked down to see Lake Mackenzie and the hut of the same name nestled amongst some trees on the shore. Once I reached the hut I was pleased, once again, to find that the fire had already been lit and I was able to join in the ritual of attempting to dry my soggy clothes in front of the stove. Yet again the highlight of the day proved to be a hot beverage and a warm meal. Though I would have rather the most memorable experience of the day was the walk itself, I was nevertheless pleased to spend a nice cosy evening in a nice warm hut whilst socialising and playing cards with my fellow backpackers, all sharing the common lament that the weather was so foul.
Fingers crossed, tomorrow has to improve! I've got to see something on this trip surely?!
Day 3
A faint glimpse of blue in an otherwise grey sky above gave a hint that the weather might clear slightly. The morning forecast suggested cloudy with showers but I decided to take a gamble. Leaving my pack in Mackenzie Hut I retraced my steps back the way I'd came the day before, proceeding all the way to the Harris Saddle, about two thirds of the way back to the Falls Hut. My gamble paid off and it started to clear so I made the trek to the summit of Conical Hill, the same place I skipped the day before because of the ghastly weather. The views from the summit were very spectacular and although I couldn't see for miles all around I was still able to see much which, after yesterdays debacle, was more than enough for me. I started to head back, more than satisfied with what I'd seen, and I returned to Mackenzie Hut to grab my pack and proceed to the next hut.
A thick impenetrable fog descended upon the land shortly after I left the hut. This didn't bother me so much as I'd already had some good views today and most of the track beyond Lake Mackenzie was beneath the bush-line and therefore most of the views would have been obscured even in good weather. I passed a rather spectacular waterfall and it wasn't too long before I reached Lake Howden and it's hut.
Howden hut was just great, mainly due to the fact that only five other people were staying there instead of the dozens of people found at the other huts. This was mainly due to the fact that it was located very near to the end of the Routeburn track. Therefore people doing only the Routeburn simply head for the end. It's really just a hut for people who are combining this track with another, as I am of course, I'm doing the Caples tomorrow. It was also nice due to it's small size and therefore didn't take long to heat up with it's coal fire. By the time I turned up it was roasting inside. It was a very tranquil evening there and, once again, I was glad to watch the awful weather outside, which had been getting progressively worse since the fog arrived.
But the fire was nice and warm inside and so I wasn't complaining. This is the good life!
Day 4
By now, as I'm sure you can imagine, I'd had my fill of rain. But looking out the window it was still grey and unpleasant looking. I left Howden hut and began the short walk to the beginning of the Caples track. I was walking with a couple of other trampers, Kiwis from Wellington, and when we reached the start of the track we had a decision to make: do we proceed down the Caples or the Greenstone route? Both of these hikes finish at the same place but the Caples climbs over a mountain saddle and is a more tricky climb. With fog all around the idea of climbing just to see nothing didn't really appeal but there were a few brief patches of clear sky that we took as good omen so off down the Caples we went.
When we reached the saddle the fog was just starting to clear and the views ahead of us were fantastic. Before long the Caples Valley could be seen in all it's stunning glory. Before long the skies cleared and the sun finally showed itself once again. We continued on and I started to edge ahead of the others, after all I had a long day ahead.
I journeyed on, eventually reaching thick forest where the track continued for quite some time before finally emerging at Upper Caples hut which was located at the base of some stunning and lofty mountains. I took a rest in the hut for about an hour, chatting to a friendly American couple before I headed on. Normally, most people stay at Upper Caples because it's the halfway point of the track. However I could only book transportation from the end of the track early in the day so I pressed on to Mid Caples hut so I could get to my transport in time the next day.
When I reached the hut I found it occupied by a group of charming locals who were vacationing in their own country. They even offered me their leftover food which was wonderfully kind of them. I keep telling you that Kiwis are friendly. It was a cosy little hut with a nice view to watch the sun disappear behind the mountains.
Day 5
Finally I awoke to start the day in good weather, it's about bloody time! I didn't have too far to go today so I took it nice and slow, enjoying the views and the wonderful weather. When I reached the end of the track I was greeted with incredible views of the vast Lake Wakatipu and the spectacular peaks that rose up over literally every possible side.
My transport arrived and I was taken on a short journey to a wharf where I, along with a few other trampers, boarded a small water taxi and were whisked off across the lake back to Glenorchy. Before long we were on a bus again and soon enough we were back in Queenstown once again.
I have never looked forward to a shower as much as I did on that day!
Rather obvious really. I'll let all the photographs I've taken on this blog speak for themselves.
These alpine clowns really are the most entertaining birds on the face of the earth. They're also smart, too smart, freakishly smart. Some of the stories I've heard really are quite fascinating. I heard one about a kea trying to open a box with some food inside but it couldn't hold the box open and grab the food at the same time so it flew off. Two minutes later it came back with another kea which proceeded to hold open the box while the first one grabbed the food! I mean what the hell did they say to each other. I think these birds are even smarter than they let on. They're plotting against us humans. Before long they'll have taken over the whole of the south island and then they'll form their own sovereign country and kick all the humans out.
I suppose I mentioned this before with the scenery. But you can't truly appreciate New Zealand's natural beauty until you earned the views through sweat and toil. Also nothing can compare to the simple pleasure of a warm fire in a cozy little back-country hut.
I'll admit, compared to my last trip to New Zealand I didn't do quite as much in the way of extreme thrill rides, though I did do some. But there really isn't a better country for cheating gravity and death in the world. Bungy jumping, whitewater rafting, skydiving and so much more, they've got it all and it's the best.
They're a bloody friendly lot New Zealanders. Outgoing and jovial they seem to enjoy life without spending any time worrying about the negative aspects of it. Seems like a good way to be if you ask me.
This is the one national park I was really sorry to miss. Located on the west coast near the south end of the north island, the park is dominated by a lone volcano that towers over the landscape. I would have loved to have climbed this spectacular peak, after all I was here to hike, but sadly it was not to be. Still it's just something I'll be able to do when I come back to live in New Zealand! Did I mention I want to live in New Zealand? Oh right yes, I can't shut up about it, that's right.
This active volcanic island is apparently meant to provide some great scenic views either from the air or from guided walks on the island. It's also accessible from the north island just off the coast of the Bay of Plenty region.
OK so obviously I came at the wrong time of year to see winter but I knew that already! The scenery is transformed to a snow covered wonderland and most of the mountain ranges become even more spectacular. Conditions are usually much more treacherous for trampers but that just adds to the excitement! The above photo is from the Tongariro Crossing and as you can see it's certainly a stark contrast to it's appearance in summer. Winter also has it's advantages, in some areas where the rainfall is high, such as the rain sodden West Coast, it is actually the dry season for the area. Then of course there are all sorts of winter activities to try out, including skiing, snowboarding and much more. Perhaps next time.
Yes that's right, even though I've been hiking until my legs feel like they're going to fall off I've only scratched the surface of the endless tracks that wind their way around this wonderful country.
