NZ/AUS EPIC HOLIDAY - Days 24-31

Arthur's Pass National Park


Day 24 - 21st Feb - West Port to Greymouth

Today it was time to get on the bus and head south in the direction of Lake Mahinapua. Only I wasn't going to Lake Mahinapua with everybody else, I was hopping off halfway down for a week long interlude in Arthur's Pass. Arthur's Pass is a tiny mountain village nestled in a valley in the middle of the national park of the same name. Were I not a fan of hiking it would probably be the worst place on the face of this entire celestial body to visit. Hiking, however, was the only thing I had in mind and it was reputed to be the perfect place for such a passtime. Arthur's Pass lies more or less one third of the distance along the coast-to-coast trans-alpine express train between Greymouth and Christchurch.

But first I had to get there. To do this I had to hop off the bus in Greymouth, on the west coast, and then head east in the direction of Christchurch, which is on the east coast. I would then jump off in Arthur's Pass. Taking a scenic train in such foul weather seemed pointless so I planned on getting the bus.

As I feared I had missed the last bus from Greymouth to Arthur's Pass by the time we arrived in town. This was mostly due to our driver, who instead of delivering the bus there at the promised time of 1:00pm had randomly stopped at every possible scenic lookout along the way. When I checked, with three different supposedly reliable sources I might add, that the drop off time was 1am they clearly forgot to mention that the time was give or take two hours to allow the driver to fuck about needlessly for hours before arriving at 3:20, a spectacular 140 minutes past schedule. As you may have gathered I was a little perturbed, I hate being inconvenienced because of false information, especially since I had double, nay, triple checked the time. If you're ever traveling Kiwi Ex don't rely on bus schedules.

I shouldn't have been so flustered about it though. Much of the west coast and inland of the south island was engulfed in a torrential rain storm, brought about by the dissipating remains of a hurricane that had just buggered the southeast coast of Australia. I found a nice little hostel in Greymouth (Greyhole might have been more appropriate, though in all fairness heavy rain does always create a bad first impression) and settled in.

I was feeling quite a lot less annoyed now. After all the rain storm was set to continue for several days and Arthur's Pass wasn't spared from it. So what's the hurry I thought, it's too wet to go hiking anyway. Also, in retrospect, the scenic stops our driver made along the way were quite nice. We enjoyed a brief walk along the coast near West Port and at one point we were able to look down and spot seals lying on the rocks below. At the time I was fretting about whether or not we would get to Greymouth in time for me to catch the bus but, as I said, I shouldn't have worried because of the incessant rain all over the country. Tomorrow I would get the bus and then I would be where I wanted to be.

our brief coastal walk

viewing seals

Day 25 - 22nd Feb - Greymouth to Arthur's Pass

I jumped on the bus to Arthur's Pass early in the morning still surrounded by torrential rain. I was dropped off about an hour later and I signed into my hostel with the rain still thundering down upon the roof. Had the weather been any better I would have gone for a stroll right away but the entire region was still engulfed in the aforementioned storm so I simply spent the entire day chilling out at the 'Mountain House' hostel.

This proved to be no bad thing as it was a lovely place. Upstairs they had a very comfortable lounge with big couches and plenty of space to put your feet up. The place was also extremely quiet, a significant departure from the usual hustle and bustle of most youth hostels. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy socialising and hanging out with others but I also appreciate moments of solitude and this laid back little hostel was just perfect.

Arthur's Pass was also a delightfully quaint little place, a tiny 50 person village in the middle of picturesque alpine splendour. At least I assumed it was picturesque, the rain and clouds blocked out absolutely everything. The village consisted of a store, a cafe, a small hostel, a more upmarket hotel and, in addition to a tiny train station, a visitor's centre. There were also a couple of small houses nearby. In good weather this cosy little village would probably seem idyllic but right now it was just wet, extremely wet.

Still I wasn't complaining, I enjoyed a nice lazy day at the hostel. I vowed however to set off for a walk tomorrow even if the weather was positively execrable, after all it was what I had come here for!


Day 26 - 23rd Feb - Arthur's Pass

The rain didn't disappear entirely today but it wasn't quite as severe as it was yesterday. That was good enough for me though, so I donned my rain gear and headed out. I checked in with the visitor's centre to enquire about the weather forecast and also to find out what walks were possible in bad weather. Since everything above the bush-line was totally obscured in thick grey clouds it was suggested I stick to the valley floor tracks.

I started with a nice easy walk to a place called the Devil's Punchbowl Falls. Although only an one hour round trip it was an ideal destination for a rainy day walk, due to the fact that the falls are apparently most spectacular after heavy rain. I headed down to the falls and wasn't disappointed. Even some distance away the spray was intense enough to ensure I could only take photos with my underwater camera.

As I was walking back along the Punchbowl Falls track I came across a previously unnoticed side path called the Aiken Track. I thought I would at least check it out. I came across a couple of signs, the first warning that the track was only for highly experienced trampers and the other warning danger and avalanche risk during adverse weather. The practically screamed "go on climb up here ya pussy, I dare ya!" so up I went. After some hellishly steep climbing I emerged above the bush-line to find that a small patch of clear sky had opened up above me and nowhere else in the rest of the area, which was still utterly engulfed in a downpour. I took this as a sign to continue and I got fairly close to one of the peaks, looking down on some amazing views of the village. Since no one else was in the vicinity of this tiny patch of clear weather I genuinely felt as if the sky had opened up just for me and no-one else.

Convinced that nature had a soft spot for me I returned to the village for some respite.

view from up high

another view

rainbow over Arthur's Pass

Day 27 - 24th Feb - Arthur's Pass

Today I awoke to what appeared to be mostly good weather. It seemed that the rain storm had finally abated, or so I thought. What I didn't realise at the time was that the storm had still left little patches of misery hanging over the mountain peaks. I started early and began the scramble up what was known as Avalanche Peak, apparently one of the most scenic day walks in the park. The climb was murderously steep at times but I managed, before long, to make it to just above the tree line.

It was at this point that the weather started to deteriorate, or to be more specific, I was marching into bad weather. It still remained fine on the valley floor but as I got higher the clouds got more dense until before long I was back in torrential rain and surrounded by grey clouds and misery. I pressed on in the hope that it might clear but it just got worse without any sign that it might improve.

The main section of track was a circuit that snaked up the edge of one mountain ridge and back down again via another. When near the top it was possible to take a side trip to the actual peak but at this point I was utterly soaked and visibility was appalling so I began to trek back down. I don't mind telling you I was a little disappointed. It was so dismal up near the peak that there wasn't even any point in taking a picture to show how dismal it was. I might as well have just photographed a grey coloured wall at close range.

My disappointment started to fade as I descended down below the clouds however. Although the peak remained shrouded in rain & misery all day, the views from about halfway down were just stunning. I managed to get some spectacular shots of the scenery around me, even if the mountain peaks were mostly cut off.

The highlight of my day though had to be an encounter with a kea, the world's only alpine parrot. These intelligent and inquisitive birds seem to have no fear of humans and one landed right in front of me on a bush right on a cliff edge, thoughtfully providing me with the perfect alpine background for a photo. I managed to get incredibly close to the bird and snap quite a few great photos before it flew off. It definitely made my day. You remember I mentioned earlier that nature was on my side, well I felt this was today's gesture for me, a nice photo opportunity to make up for the weather at the peak.

Feeling satisfied with my meeting with the kea I returned to the village to rest my weary legs. When I got back to Arthur's Pass I saw that there were actually loads of kea flying around. They were putting on a snow for the locals but without the scenic backdrop down here at ground level I knew that I had grabbed the best wildlife photo of the day.

Tomorrow we should finally be rid of this foul rain and then I hope to get some really spectacular photos. Now it's time to rest again.

the view coming down

friendly kea

Day 28 - 25th Feb - Arthur's Pass

The weather finally cleared up today and I was at last able to embark on a longer hike. I would have liked to have gone out into the wilderness for at least four days but the sunny spell was apparently not going to last that long so I opted instead for a two day walk.

Today I would walk to Goat Pass and stay there overnight in the hut and then head back into Arthur's Pass the next day. First though I would have to reach the trail head. This was a pleasant stroll along the railway tracks down next to the Bealey River for about an hour. At one point I had to step aside and allow the trans-alpine train to pass which provided a good photo opportunity. It's quite thrilling to watch a train come bearing down on you before stepping to one side and watching it go storming past. Exchanging waves with the passengers is always nice as well.

After fording the Bealey River I started the trail through a large valley following the Mingha River. It was a fairly easy track that winded along the valley floor with the river. Despite the good weather and the fact that the Goat Pass trail is a popular tramp I only met three people during the whole walk. Not only that but they were going the other way so I suspected that the hut would be nice and quiet upon my arrival. After fording the river a few more times the track eventually rose above the bush-line and provided some stunning views of the peaks above. It was late in the afternoon by the time I reached Goat Pass hut.

The hut turned out to be a very pleasant little place with a great view of the surrounding mountains. It was made even better because of the fact that only one other person was there. Not only that but there were two bunk rooms so I essentially had my own room. I was told by the other tramper, a real veteran of the back country, that this hut was usually packed so I felt really lucky.

I spent some time talking to my fellow tramper, Colin, who had apparently been traipsing around the region for a staggering nine days. He had been clambering over peaks and along ridges and generally around places that I sure as hell wouldn't venture until I was more experienced and sure of my survival skills. One night he was still caught out on the trail while it was still dark and because he didn't have a tent he just bunked down in a small waterproof sleeping-bag and spent the night on the cold ground! More power to him!

I made myself cooked meal and later a hot chocolate using my newly acquired stove. I can tell you now that no hot beverage tastes as good as one that you make fresh while up in the cold mountains of an alpine national park! Little pleasures like these are one of the many perks of long distance tramping. Satisfied and in good spirits I retired with my sleeping bag to my bunk, happy to have a whole room to myself.

the view from near the hut

Day 29 - 26th Feb - Arthur's Pass

Morning came and it was time to carry on with the trek. Normally people doing the Goat Pass route carry on past the hut and carry on down the deception river. However I hadn't arranged transportation from the trail exit and it was too far from Arthur's Pass to walk. So today I would return the way I came along the Mingha River.

But first a little side trip. I decided that I hadn't gained enough altitude during my hike, after all the mountain peaks were still towering over the hut almost taunting me with their height. I also felt that since I was retracing my steps I wouldn't otherwise be seeing anything new this day.

So I scrambled up the side of one of the mountains that overlooked the hut, leaving my heavy pack inside. The climb was incredibly steep and I worked hard to drag myself to the top. Even without the encumbrance of my pack it was hard work but before long I was rewarded with an amazing view of the hut, now a small blot on the ground below. I continued along the ridge of the mountain until I reached a nice lake, Lake Mavis, apparently one of the more easily accessible alpine lakes.

Earlier that morning I had encountered another tramper named Steve who arrived at the hut. I wondered where on earth he had come from since the next nearest hut from here was a day walk away and apparently he had camped up next to Lake Mavis. It was him that suggested I should climb up there if I wanted a change of scenery and a better view. Had I a tent in my possession I would certainly have set up camp next to this isolated lake. Sadly though I did not and I would have to be making tracks soon in order to get back to Arthur's Pass in time.

I retraced my steps along the track and as I looked back I noticed that rain clouds were creeping in where I had just been, despite the fact that the sky above and in front remained clear and sunny. I keep mentioning that Arthur's Pass national park really likes me and this time it was waiting for me to vacate the area before it rained. I reached the end of the trail and started up towards the village again, the clouds behind me bringing rain but the way ahead clear. This time I walked along the river bank instead of the train tracks. This took longer since the route was over much rougher ground and winded back and forth much more. It was early evening by the time I reached the village and signed back into my hostel.

My legs felt like jelly, after all I had walked a total of 31 kilometres in two days over rough terrain, but after some stretching exercises I felt like doing it all over again. Take heed now, nothing cures muscle fatigue like a few simple stretches!

Presently, as I write this, I'm having a couple of pints in the small cafe near the hostel. Now that I'm inside the rain could start again, though it stopped for a few moments so I could walk to the bar without getting wet. I'm still not done hiking though, I've got two more days before I return to civilisation and rejoin the backpacker bus. Aah I'm in heaven, I want to live in New Zealand so bloody much!

looking down on the hut

Day 30 - 27th Feb - Arthur's Pass

It was supposed to rain for much of the day but apparently most of it let up before dawn, leaving high clouds around the mountains but also leaving the area quite dry. I reported to the visitor's centre to enquire about the weather and I was told that there was a slight possibility that the thick clouds around the peaks would clear up. Those were good enough odds for me and so, after a quick breakfast, I impulsively headed up the Avalanche Peak track once again.

If you'll recall, Avalanche Peak was the place I tried to reach before but was turned back by awful weather, but also delighted by the local kea. Even though the chances were not high I wanted to see the view from the peak, this was the single main reason for coming to Arthur's Pass. I wondered to myself if I was pushing my luck, after all I had already had several lucky breaks during my time here, but I pressed on nonetheless. As I ascended the track towards the peak I could see that it was still dominated with heavy cloud cover most of the way up. Although dry, unlike before, the visibility was still dreadful and I had to keep my eyes on the path and the track marker poles to make sure I was even going in the right direction.

I reached the top around midday to find the view blind in all directions. But I wasn't prepared to give up yet and neither were the other hopeful trampers, about seven of them, who had made the climb. We waited around, entertained by a single kea who kept trying to steal food, but the cloud showed no sign of clearing.

After an hour though, faint glimpses of scenery began to reveal themselves, causing much excitement as we hoped that this was the first stage towards clear skies. Before long the clouds retreated further and further away from our location and soon I was staring in slack jawed astonishment at some of the most incredible scenery I had ever witnessed. Our gratitude knew no bounds, we were all hardly able to contain our joy at the situation, after all we were told there was only a slim chance of clear weather. I can't imagine how many photos I took, far too many to fit here though.

I must have remained up there for more than an hour after it cleared. It's amazing how spiritually uplifting hiking can be. There is a certain satisfaction gained from knowing that you've truly earned the view you're now gazing upon through hard work and tiring, though gratifying nonetheless, exercises. It provides a pleasure that can't be gained using methods that don't involve exerting yourself, such as driving to a scenic lookout or flying over it.

More and more people started to arrive at the peak until before long we were having trouble finding room to move. Eventually I returned to the trail back to the village, arriving in the late afternoon. I've got one more day here before I return to Greymouth to resume my circumnavigation of the south island. Though I must admit I'm in no hurry to leave this place!

worth the wait

great view!

Day 31 - 28th Feb - Arthur's Pass

Heavy rain was due later today so I opted for a simple half-day walk along on of the valley floors, the Bealey Valley to be precise. It proved to be quite a pleasant stroll and it was only in the last hour that the rain started to pour down.

But now it is nearly time to leave this wonderful place. It's not as if I've run out of things to do, there are enough tracks, huts and peaks to occupy a seasoned tramper for months, but I've still got most of the south island to explore so I'm moving on.

Tomorrow I'll get the bus to Greymouth and continue down the west coast. Besides, I think my legs need a bit of a rest.