LEARNING TO LOVE SCOTLAND - Isle of Skye

Isle of Skye

Black Cuillin Scramble

After my completion of the WHW it was time to head further north to the Isle of Skye, the main reason I had taken this entire trip in the first place. I had already decided that Skye was my favourite place in Britain long before I even arrived on the bus. I simply had to go there now to prove it! I had seen a photograph of the epic Black Cuillin mountain range whilst browsing online and I immediately fell in love with the place. By the time the bus got into Sligachan (Slee-a-hann) it was getting a bit late for a long walk so I settled into the bunkhouse which was frankly one of the nicest places I'd stayed in for years. I would have been here for my entire time on Skye but I could only secure one night, then I would move to the nearby campsite for a few nights. But that was yesterday.

Well rested after my WHW walk and Nevis climb I was ready to embark once more upon a series of mountain climbs and by early morning I was already heading off towards the treacherous looking Black Cuillin peaks that dominate the view just behind the Sligachan Hotel. A thick grey cloud hovered over the peaks themselves but so far they seemed to stop just short of obscuring any of them. The weather in all other directions was relatively clear and sunny and I took this as a good enough sign to proceed.

I never actually reached any peaks of significant height that day. The clouds lowered slightly and cut of the tips of the mountains, shrouding them in a thick grey fog. So for the rest of that day I was content to scramble around the ridges, cols and passes that lay just below the summits. The high fog certainly didn't discourage others from reaching the top and there were several groups of rock climbers in the area leading groups up some of the more dangerous vertical climbs. I was happy enough scrambling up some of the scree slopes and pulling myself over boulders and I still managed to get some first class views and photographs. I was a tiny bit disappointed that I didn't reach any summits but then I wouldn't have been able to see anything anyway.

Satisfied, I removed myself from the area just in time as a heavy downpour began. Once clear of the Black Cuillins the weather started to clear again, leaving most of the cold and misery over the peaks behind me. I would have to return another day to really get a photograph the likes of the one that drew me to the area in the first place.

looking back on one of the smaller summits I reached

one of the many spectacular views

Storr and the North of Skye

It was a clear day but bitterly cold. The Black Cuillins were still attracting the worst of the weather, as were the more gentle Red Cuillins nearby so I grabbed a bus and headed north to Portree, the largest settlement of the area. It was a charming little town, not spoilt by mass-tourism or over-development. But my main reason for heading here was to take another bus further north still to see the most visited area on Skye: The Storr. This well known landmark is the start of the Trotternish Ridge, a steep sided escarpment that runs almost the entire length of the peninsula that it's located on. Due to the infrequent nature of buses in the area I didn't have time for a full day walk in the area, instead I had just a few hours so I simply dashed up to the face of the cliffs and took some time to admire the unique and rather striking rock formations. The 'Old Man of Storr' is the most well known of these, a large rock pinnacle that rises around 50 metres above its base, leaning slightly seawards.

The weather was still beautifully clear but quite cold and I wasn't too sorry to descend from the freezing and exposed peaks and cliffs to catch my bus. The bus I caught took the long way round the rest of the Trotternish Peninsula, taking me on a scenic ride along winding country roads, through sleepy little villages and commanding views of the ocean and the grand Trotternish Ridge. As the day drew to a close I returned to the campsite in Sligachan once again and settled down for the night, though not before having a couple of pints in the truly wonderful bar nearby.

the cliff face of 'The Storr'

looking east with the mainland in the distance

Back into the Black Cuillins

The weather was warmer and less blustery today so once again I headed towards the Black Cuillins in search of a view to end all views. Instead of heading straight towards the northernmost peaks like I did a couple of days ago I proceeded down through Glen Sligachan to the other side of the Black Cuillins. I was making up the path as I went along but it turned out that I was unwittingly following one of the routes suggested in my Lonely Planet walking guide.

As the day dragged on I was treated to increasingly stunning views all around and the clouds were starting to clear from the peaks. After many hours of walking I found the view I was looking for, an absolutely breathtaking panoramic lookout over the peaks with the stunning Loch Coruisk in the foreground. It seems I had stumbled upon the location of the web photograph that drew me to the Isle of Skye in the first place. Elated, I spent quite some time soaking in the view before finally heading off on the long walk back to Sligachan. I enjoyed one more night in the delightful pub before turning in, my last night on the Isle of Skye.

Skye: possibly the most beautiful place in Britain

Skye to Fort William via Eilean Donan Castle

It was time to leave Skye and proceed back to the mainland. But first I would make a scenic stop at one place along the route that I just couldn't miss.

If you've only heard of or seen a photograph of one castle in Scotland, the chances are pretty good that it is Eilean Donan Castle. This sublime little castle, perfectly positioned in an immensely scenic location on a tiny island just off the coast of Loch Duich, is probably one of the most photographed and visited areas in the whole country. Castles with a spectacular view seem to be quite ubiquitous in Scotland, always located in a picturesque glen or overlooking a beautiful loch or next to the edge of a dramatic cliff face. It's what castles in Scotland do best, there are hardly any that don't have a great few, possibly none in fact.

This splendid little fortress was actually destroyed by navy ships in 1719 but it was lovingly restored between 1919 and 1932 and now closely resembles the appearance it was said to posses before it was destroyed, though the bridge was added for easier access. I had a look around the interior of the place, it was interesting and many of the rooms inside had been restored, creating quite the step back in time. Admittedly though, the highlight of the place is not inside the castle itself, it's the views from outside. There seemed to be more tourists outside the castle taking photos from a distance than there were inside during my whole time in the area.

Departing on the bus, I headed back to Fort William to catch the train back to Edinburgh via Glasgow. My short Scottish holiday was over for now but my quest to learn to love Scotland had only just begun!

the delightful Eilean Donan Castle